In climbing, every overhead move—from delicate crimps to big throws—requires stability and precision initiated from the shoulders. Doing shoulder strengthening exercises regularly can help you execute those movements with more control, hold difficult positions for longer, and stabilize on the wall before and after big moves. 

The other—perhaps more compelling—rationale behind shoulder exercises for climbers: injury prevention. Many climbers have well-developed deltoids and upper back muscles but neglect their rotator cuffs, which are the bundles of little muscles that hold your shoulders in place. When your bigger muscles are powerful enough to create a lot of force, but your smaller stabilizing muscles aren’t strong enough to take that force, that can lead to injury.

In fact, according to a 2018 analysis by a team of international researchers, about 17 percent of all climbing injuries affect the shoulders, making them the second-most injury prone body part after fingers. And that’s nothing to brush off. After all, shoulders can take a really long time to heal. According to a 2017 study, it took the average climber more than 27 months after rotator cuff surgery to regain their previous level of climbing proficiency—if they regained it at all. 

The good news? You can prevent injury by sprinkling a few shoulder strengthening exercises into your routine. The below workout only requires about 30 minutes and minimal equipment. Do it at least three days a week, on its own or after climbing, for strong, resilient shoulders. (If you’re short on time or new to shoulder strengthening, pick three exercises. Do the others during your next training day.) 

IYTsProtocol: 3 sets of 5 reps, with 1 minute of rest between each set. Do all three movements (I, Y, and T) consecutively to complete one rep. 

Equipment: Incline bench, 2- to 5-pound dumbbells to start. If this feels easy, add up to 5 pounds per arm; strive for the max weight you can do with good, controlled form.

I: Lay chest-down on a 45-degree bench with either your knees on the seat of the bench or your feet on the floor to either side. Hold a lightweight dumbbell in each hand, arms hanging down on either side of the bench, thumbs pointing forward. Keeping elbows straight, reach for the wall in front of you, thumbs pointing toward the ceiling, until your arms are fully extended alongside your ears and in line with the rest of your body (like an “I”). Then, lower back to your starting position.

Y: Next, raise your arms up and away from your midline, until each one forms about a 45-degree angle to your neck (a “Y”). Again, they should end up in the same plane as the rest of your body, your elbows about level with your ears, thumbs pointed up. Then, lower back to the starting position.

T: Finally, raise your arms out laterally from your body, thumbs pointed forward toward the wall in front of you, until your arms form right angles to your sides (creating a “T”). Then, lower back to the starting position.

Internal and External Rotations

Protocol: 3 sets of 10 reps on each side, with 1 minute of rest between each set. Do 20 total internal rotations followed by 20 total external rotations to complete one set. 

Equipment: Fixed object, hand towel, light resistance band to start. Go up one band level as needed to feel an even burn through your shoulders by the last rep of each set. If you’re struggling to finish your reps or maintain good form, go down a band level—remember, this is about preventing injury.

Internal Rotation

Either use a shoulder band station at your climbing gym, or tie a resistance band around a fixed object at about hip height. Tuck a rolled-up towel under your armpit to support your rotator cuff tendons, and stand with your left hip facing the wall. Grasp the free end of the band with your left hand and step outward from the wall until the band is just taut. Start with your thumb pointing upward and your forearm forming a right angle both to your upper arm and to your trunk. Rotate at your elbow to pull the band inward until the heel of your hand touches your belly button. Slowly release to the starting position. 

External Rotation

Now, take the end of the band in your right hand. Take a side-step or two toward the wall if need be. Keep your right elbow at a right angle with your hand resting on your belly button. Pull outward until your forearm is perpendicular to your trunk. Then, return slowly back to the starting position.

Renegade Rows

Protocol: 3 sets of 8 reps on each side, with 1 minute of rest between each set. 

Equipment: 5- to 10-pound dumbbells to start. If this feels easy, add up to 5 pounds per arm; strive for the max weight you can do with good, controlled form. 

This is a full-body exercise that works your core and rhomboids and improves shoulder stability at the same time. To start, grab two dumbbells and place them shoulder-width apart on the floor. With your hands gripping the dumbbells, assume a plank position—back straight, neck neutral, quads and core engaged. Lift one dumbbell off the floor, using your core to keep both feet on the ground. Draw the dumbbell up and back, thumb pointing forward and arm in line with your side, until it touches your ribcage. (Keep your shoulder blades tucked back and down throughout, and think about pinching them together to draw that dumbbell upward.) Then lower to the starting position and do the same on the other side. Repeat, alternating sides until you’ve completed your reps.

Scapular Pullups

Protocol: 3 sets of 5 to 10 reps, with 1 minute of rest between each set. 

Equipment: Pullup bar 

This exercise—basically a pullup without the pulling-up part—trains proper shoulder engagement on the wall. First, hang from a pullup bar with your hands slightly more than shoulder-width apart. Sink down into the hang until your shoulders are just about touching your ears. Now, keeping elbows straight, engage your lats and rhomboids—the muscles over the back of your ribcage and between your shoulder blades, respectively—to pull your shoulders down away from your ears. You should feel as though you’re pulling your scapulae inward and downward (think about trying to draw your shoulder blades down your back). At the top of this motion, hold for a second, then sink slowly back to the starting position.

Shoulder Rotations with Band

Protocol: 3 sets of 5 reps, with 1 minute of rest between each set. 

Equipment: Light resistance band loop to start. Go up one band level as needed to feel an even burn through your shoulders by the last rep of each set. If you’re struggling to finish your reps or maintain good form, go down a band level. 

Put a looped resistance band around your wrists. (Folded over and slack, the loop should be about a foot across). Stand straight, keeping core and glutes tight, arms straight down in front of you. Keeping your fingers straight and palms facing one another, pull outward on the band until it’s about shoulder-width apart. Maintaining tension, raise your arms in an arc until they’re straight overhead. Pause a moment, lower to the starting position, then relax your shoulders to release tension.

All articles are for general informational purposes.  Each individual’s needs, preferences, goals and abilities may vary.  Be sure to obtain all appropriate training, expert supervision and/or medical advice before engaging in strenuous or potentially hazardous activity.