How To Assemble a New Bike

With the rise of direct-to-consumer bike brands, you may find yourself putting together a new bike for the first time. It can be intimidating, especially upon completion as you bomb down a hill, wondering if all parts are connected and tightened correctly. However, with the right information, tools, and can-do attitude, you’ll be going from unboxing to ripping down the road in no time. Anyone can build a bike that they can feel confident and safe on. Here’s how.

Do: Have the Right Tools

Though most new bikes arrive in some degree of “pre-assembled” shape, depending on the number of pieces and whether it has an included tool kit, you’ll likely only need a few tools to start your bike-building journey: a set of metric hex wrenches (aka Allen keys), a torque wrench capable of single digit Newton-meter readings, and bike grease (or carbon paste if your bike is made of carbon fiber). You’ll also need a rag handy for any grease cleanup, a pair of scissors for any unpackaging, and a pump for tire inflation.

Don't: Tear Your Box Apart in Excitement

Many parts for a bike are small, and specific hardware like screws can easily slip between the cracks or beneath a cupboard. Open carefully and organize the bike parts, being careful not to cut any wires or damage parts while removing packaging.

Do: Protect Your Seat Post

Before you insert your seat post, be sure to lubricate the inside of the tube where it sits. If it is metal, apply a light layer of grease. If it is carbon, apply a light coating of carbon assembly paste. A lubricating layer will protect the pieces from rubbing and wearing.

Don’t: Guess on Tightness

Most bikes will tell you exactly how tight each screw needs to be in a measure of Newton-meters (Nm). Following these settings exactly will keep you safe with each part tightened properly, without risking ruining your investment by over-tightening and bending or cracking any part of your bike. 

Do: Tighten Your Handlebars in the Right Order

First, attach your handlebars to the stem by removing the stem faceplate, sliding your handlebars in, and replacing the faceplate. Tighten each bolt on the faceplate progressively, crisscrossing from top to bottom and side to side, so that the plate tightens equally, with an even gap on the top and bottom. If the stem is loose on the vertical steerer tube, next tighten the screw head that points straight up the tube and, finally, align your handlebars with the front wheel and tighten the two bolts closest to the rider that secure the handlebars, stem, and wheel in position. 

Don't: Get Your Wires Crossed

When you’re in a hurry, it can be easy to put your handlebars on without paying attention to where the cables for your brakes and derailleurs route. Make sure they are not twisted around each other as this may limit your turning radius. You may need to twist and turn the handlebars to get the cables straightened out.

Do: Inflate Your Tires

Installing your front and rear tire will likely either involve an axle or a quick-release skewer. Both make it easy to get the wheel on and off, but just because it is on doesn't mean it's ready to ride. Check your tire’s sidewall for the recommended pressure and fill your tires before you ride. (If your bike has front or rear suspension, you’ll also need to check the pressure of the shocks and inflate with a separate shock pump, according to the manufacturer recommendations for your weight.) 

Don’t: Pull the Brakes Before Your Wheel is on

If you have disc brakes, pulling the brake lever without your wheel on will cause your brake caliper pads to squish together, and they won't separate. You’ll need to pry them apart with a flathead screwdriver or take them to a bike shop for repair. Only pull your brake levers when the wheel is on your bike. 

Do: Buy Pedals Beforehand

Most nicer bikes won’t come with pedals! And if they do, they will be cheap and plastic. Invest in pedals before your bike arrives so you can ride it the day it shows up at your door.

Don’t: Get Frustrated Putting Pedals on

Think of this: Pedaling your bike tightens the pedal, keeping it from falling off. So while the pedal on the right side of the bike attaches righty-tighty, the pedal on the left side of the bike is reverse-threaded. You’ll need to tighten it to the left (counter-clockwise). Note this may require a larger hex wrench or open-ended 15 mm pedal wrench.

Do: Keep a Flat Saddle

As you get your saddle to the right height, keep it flat and parallel to the ground. This will provide the best, most ergonomic position that will keep you from hurting your perineum. 

Don’t: Shoot Off Down the Hill

Do a trial ride on flat surfaces before heading out on a ride to ensure that your brakes work effectively, your derailleurs shift efficiently, and you ride comfortably. When in doubt, take your bike in for a professional inspection to check your work and ensure that the bike is properly set up and tuned. 

All articles are for general informational purposes.  Each individual’s needs, preferences, goals and abilities may vary.  Be sure to obtain all appropriate training, expert supervision and/or medical advice before engaging in strenuous or potentially hazardous activity.